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Post by Kristal Rose on Jun 24, 2009 20:13:53 GMT -5
You're still here? I'm not really surprised.
You accused me of bringing too much living on my bike (no trailer), yet you can't see how to do without a trailer for an overnight trip? Now that I've got in my retort for your past complaints...
Believe me, it's possible to do without a trailer and still carry an art studio, car mechanics tools, several colors of nail polish, electronics tools, incense, epilator, CD's, stove and pan, groceries, and what not. It does take engineering though. Nothing much more complicated than assembling pre-fab furniture though.
Don't give up hope. I said this could take days to get down. It took me days after years of experience living in the mountains by bike and doing day bikes of 120 miles. Since then I once carried 21 bags of groceries home on my bike. I once carried a 10' bamboo temple, wicker throne, 40 sea soles, card table, and a trunk of psychic relics at once. My inspiration was my mom going to China and reporting back that they carried entire three piece living room furniture sets on their bikes there.
The panniers didn't work? I did have to bike more carefully with them, but I have size 12 feet, and still didn't resort to not pedalling with the balls of my feet.
They are on the backmost of the rack? The rack is typically attached by metal straps to near the seat post. You can get longer straps if necessary, although if it leans backwards, that complicates securing the panniers or stacking things on top. If you have things strapped on top though (using those snap-buckle straps I told you to get), even if your heel does catch, nothing will budge.
I told you to mount anything heavy within the frame like the stove and tools. Hose clamps, tape, zip-ties are all allies in this. These days though you can probably find ready made things meant to mount instead of water bottles. Meanwhile, mount your water bottle rack using the abve mentions to your steering post, where you won't have to reach for it.
You don't want to put all your weight on the rear. You need front racks, even if just coats and groceries go in your front bags.
C. should recall my recent set-up which is beyond your building skills, but not his. It's what I most recommend. It's a rear rack, and a large rectangular laundry basket on top that secures with wing-nuts. Once the panniers are in place, you'll have to leave them there unless you remove the basket to lift up the panniers. The hard part to make is the struts supporting the rear of the basket from near the rear axle. I made mine by bending part of a lawnchair, and having the rear part of the basket clip on to that with TV tray clips. You'll still need weight in front to counterbalance the weight hanging past the rear axle, and heaviest stuff still has to go on the frame or the bottom of the panniers. The basket is for coats and sleeping bags. Something as heavy as a tent should be in the center of the basket at the bottom.
Front shocks, hmm. ..and not enough wire to reach the rear? It would still be useful as an odometer in the rear, it's main purpose anyhow, if not as a speedometer. The only speed worth knowing is average trip speed including breaks anyhow, though current speed is fun to know. You haven't even tested it and you're taking off? It takes five minutes to do a road test. It wont be accurate unless you follow the directions and set the tire size 'before' you go anywhere (although it's probably preset for average). If your bike has front caliper brakes, I'd think part of the shocks are consistent in respect to some spot on the spokes. Doesn't sound like he tried hard.
Yeah, I discovered the light doesn't crank in place. Mine will, but It's a scuba divers version, and I'll be making my own bike mount. Yours though should just slip right out to wind (perhaps pressing a clip first). To save weight on duplicate lights, you might be able to power it up with batteries from the charger socket. Again, ask C. Otherwise I guess have two headlights (security anyhow) and just consider your handle bar the storage place for your camping flashlight. If you're in pitch black with dead batteries, then it still may be worth stopping to crank a light for biking purposes.
I know the zombie gig. Various versions. His sounds like lack of exercise and stimulating purpose, and poor diet (couch potato syndrome) in combo with a slow metabolism to start with. Suggest to him no meals, only eating small snacks, only when actually hungry, and always nutritious and balanced, like nuts or fruits or cheese.
Things are briefly tight here since I almost lost my job, haven't worked in a while, and went on a 12 year spending spree, but if you need some basic things like front racks and front bags, I can cover that. I kind of figured this day would come. I'd offer a real trailer, but since you declined my help, I spent on other stuff instead, and you'd have to wait another month or two for that.
Oh right, you have front shocks. That complicates matters. I'm sure answers still exist though.
You should learn how to get by without a trailer first anyhow.
I might send you my trailer, but I'd have to make a new basket first for grocery shopping. A falling tree took out my last one. It's a $350 trailer. Considering cost of shipping though, a front luggage set-up eBayed directly to you makes more sense.
Most of my heavy tiny stuff: tools, jewelry and cosmetics, and such, was in a Plano tackle box mounted on my front rack and additionaly secured to the handle bar. I drilled holes though the bottom of it and the front rack to attach via bolts and wing-nuts. You're going to have to do some thinking like that.
Did you ever find a library book (or any book) on bike camping? Maybe the internet is full of advice with photos these days on gear rigging. Anyhow sweetheart, don't get bummed. Bike camping requires learning things. Nothing you can't learn though, and not too much. You will almost certainly have to make some mounting things though, either that, or bring tons of bandaging tape with you.
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Post by Kristal Rose on Jun 24, 2009 20:31:38 GMT -5
Let me know if the trailer interests you. I know I wanted one when bike camping, but around L.A. I found I prefer not to be a road hog. As I also recall though, once you leave the city, there are often highways with no shoulder at all. A trailer is just a few inches wider than handlebars, but then only 60% of the handle bars need to be on the road, and all of the trailer does. Also a trailer doesn't work for bike paragliding, though I doubt that will ever actually happen. Mark doesn't smoke at all does he? Find small cases the width of your frame you can attach within your frame, and fill with ziploc baggies of things like hygiene gear, camera, or munchies. Figure out and let me know the model of your front fork, so I can better know your front luggage options. The car veers on crazy talk. You could pay a pro $1500 to make your bike a bike camping hot rod. If $1500 bothers you, you aren't ready to own a car. I was offered a 95% restored 1967 Porsche 911, the exact vintage of Euro cars I specialised in customizing and repairing, and turned down the offer. (Partially because I can carry more on my bike that in it's trunk) This should work for your front rack, shouldn't it? cgi.ebay.com/FRONT-RACK-FOR-MOUNTAIN-BIKE-MTB-SUSPENSION-SHOCK-FORK_W0QQitemZ310149029458QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCycling_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4836529e52&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A15|66%3A4|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A200A super front rack, but out of my budget and more than you need if you use a handle bar or copy my tackle box idea: cgi.ebay.com/Surly-Front-Nice-Rack_W0QQitemZ190316018008QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCycling_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2c4fb7f958&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A4|39%3A1|72%3A1205|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A200One of these frame bags, I can't tell which is better: cgi.ebay.com/Frame-Bicycle-Triangle-Bag-Black-Bike-Carrier-Velcro_W0QQitemZ390053530589QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCycling_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5ad1008bdd&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A4|39%3A1|72%3A1205|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A200or cgi.ebay.com/BICYCLE-HERO-BIKE-FRONT-FRAME-PIPE-BAG-TRIANGLE-VELCRO_W0QQitemZ220439753664QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCycling_Parts_Accessories?hash=item33533bb3c0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A4|39%3A1|72%3A1205|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A200Ah, this looks best cgi.ebay.com/MOUNTAIN-BIKE-FRAME-PUMP-BAG-ROAD-TREKKING-BICYCLE-NEW_W0QQitemZ310149826453QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCycling_Parts_Accessories?hash=item48365ec795&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A4|39%3A1|72%3A1205|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A200This clothes bag (grn/org/red) above the front rack: cgi.ebay.com/BICYCLE-HERO-CYCLING-BIKE-REMOVABLE-CLOTHES-BASKET-ORAN_W0QQitemZ320387498425QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCycling_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a989541b9&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A4|39%3A1|72%3A1205|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A200Heres a nice handlebar bag, but out of my budget cgi.ebay.com/TOPEAK-BICYCLE-TOUR-GUIDE-HANDLEBAR-BAG-PACK-2009-NEW_W0QQitemZ290326025425QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCycling_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4398c794d1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A4|39%3A1|72%3A1205|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A200This could work for front panniers or rear (but probably worse than your current rear as far as heel biting or floppiness goes) cgi.ebay.com/VTG-GERRY-Red-Nylon-Travel-Medium-Bicycle-Panniers-18_W0QQitemZ220438486213QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCycling_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3353285cc5&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A4|39%3A1|72%3A1205|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A200Speak quick on that one, it's a used deal. You don't really want floppy stuff on your front. Light art tackle boxes strapped and velcroed (with epoxy), or u-bolted with wing nuts and lock-washers to your front rack might be better in combo with the clothes bag up top. Well I gues you verified that biking rule of thumb "If it looks like it might break, it probably will". Keep in mind that anything you travel with should be able to withstand dumping the bike. I dumped mine on the first day out and still own a tackle box with skid marks. I can still feel that chipped broken palm of my hand too. Basically just after crossing the golden gate bridge I felt so ecstatic that I speeded down a steep gravel road with an unexpected sharp turn. Nothing ever happened after that though, aside from having to ride in pitch black for hours to make a destination, and one steep hill that opened into a cross-road where I feared I might snap the brake cables before being able to stop. If you ever run into that situation, btw, never surpass a speed in the first place in which you're not sure of being able to slow down. - combine hills, weight, and speed, and it could happen. If you are at a break-away speed, drag a foot, use both brakes at once, and if a cable snaps, try turning back up the road and prepare to land on top of a crashed bike. Better that than just going faster and seeing what happens. As I said though, just never go faster down a hill that you can slow down from in the first place. If if doubt, try braking. The only reason I got in that fix is that I had never travelled with weight before, braking was never an issue before, and it wasn't till I was cruising down the hill that I thought to slow down and found out that might be a problem. Brake down hills. Brake no more than necessary of course. Braking is always wasted pedalling and momentum, which on a trip adds up.
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Post by Nixie on Jun 25, 2009 12:49:28 GMT -5
None of the links work.
Problem: I can't fit anything inside my frame. I have a woman's style frame.
My stepdad tried for half an hour to put the computer on my bike. He tired both front and back. It didn't work, so he put it on Mark's, and Mark was half-asleep by the time he got on his bike and headed home that night.
The rack I had on my bike didn't fit my bike at all, really. My stepdad had to find a hitch from some other mounted device and use that to attach the rack, and the end of the rack was still pressing against the bottom of my seat. When I used the trailor I bought a second rack, and I'm gonna put that other rack on my bike today. It looks like this one might actually fit my frame.
My biggest packing problem is that our tent weighs 11 pounds, is very floppy, and is wide than my handlebars. I was considering buying a different tent, but then I'd have less and less money for actually being on the road. Look, right now I don't have anything extravagant except my MP3 player and camera- both small. I only have two changes of clothes. I can't ditch the rain gear or sweatshirt, and I don't see any sense in only having a single pot to cook in when there are two of us. Mom thinks I can go without an ace bandage and a travel pack of Wet Ones. My stepdad thinks I should only have one change of clothes and no deodorant.
Mark doesn't smoke.
I'm thinking of getting a backet to put on my rear rack. It's designed for bicycles and apparently it can even slide onto a rack for easy removal, plus it has sturdy bars at the top for ease of strapping things down. The basket holds as much as 1.5 panniers (at least, the size of panniers I have). If I get a backpacking tent, that will solve most of the storage problems.
My problem with getting a trailer is that they cost a minimum of $250, and I only have $500 for the trip.
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Post by Kristal Rose on Jun 25, 2009 17:49:29 GMT -5
Ah, ok. As long as he tried
Did you copy the entire links in case they are chopped off?
Hmm, they work for me without even logging on. They must rely on cookies. I'll have to research that.
Woman's frame. hadn't occurred to me. I'm sure there are frame bags that fit those too, otherwise they can be made. A skinny thrift store purse with velcro straps sewn on would work identically, be cheaper, fit better, and be more personal. Surely you can at least sew velcro straps to a purse.
I give you a lot of credit for trying the trailer bike. Too bad it didn't work out. I'm not surprised since the whole design puts too much torque on a single point. Luggage trailers don't do that.
If you're packing light, the place for your tent is where mine was, on top of the rear rack which has panniers on the side. Your sleeping bag goes there too unless you strap that that to the handlebars, but front space is better for travel access stuff (as long as you can make it unfloppy), and the rear for stuff all strapped together until you set up camp, except the pannier pockets which are good for toiletries, medical, music, batteries, munchies, and a mini-mag light. Lunch should go in front bags or the panniers.
Tape or velcro a case for your camera to your handlebar, or better yet, the top of your frame up front.
Your packing list is already pretty slim. You just haven't learned to pack well yet, or have funky luggage gear. Two pots, or a pot and a frying pan are fine for two peolpe. Aluminum may be light, but it sucks to clean (stuff burns and sticks), in an environment where cleaning is usually already tough. Small stainless-steel is best. Best of all is a frying pan that fits well as a pot lid.
You have that tape and spare shirts or a dish cloth, so yeah, no need for an Ace bandage. Wet ones? In packets, I hope. Considering the sweaty stress one's rump might go through, that's probably not a bad idea. Paper towels can be folded in quarters, crushed flat, and vacuum packed with a straw in ziplocs.
Uncle D. used to go so far as trimming the excess 1/4" off his food packets. I would cut off instructions from boxes, and just put pen-labeled food mix packets together in a single ziploc.
I spent a solid week figuring out how to best pack my bike for my trip, including the three days of repacking after I originaly left. Every detail requires ingenuitive thought and contemplation of what living with that arrangement would be like. It's not like packing a suitcase for a flight. Also suitcases can compress your stuff. On a bike each item needs independently compressed somehow (string, wire-ties, vacuumed ziplocs, rubber-bands.)
Even if you travel light, the more compact your stuff, the easier travel and access will be. Tetris things together by access rate. So if you tetris together a ziploc of medical things, a razor, nail polish, and jewelry, stuff accessed once a week, dont throw your toothbrush in and force repacking that ziploc every night.
C. apparently wants you to live like sasquatch, and not fit in a nice dinner at a restaurant on occcasion. It's a different style. You can do pure outback, or travel in style with only a 7% increase in weight, so why limit yourself to outback drifter style? Carrying your career around could add 20-150% more weight though. There are reasons to do that too, but that's an entirely different sort of trip as well.
The one thing I suggest you don't need, aside from music while pedalling, is any sort of entertainment gear. Maybe a book and cards, but don't bring your own project things to do, or you're missing the point of travel (unless it's stuff like photography, made possible only by travel).
There is no excuse for your tent flopping around. You need to learn packing engineering. Buy a bag of big rubber-bands, zip-ties, quart and gallon freezer ziplocs, velcro strip, shoe laces or cording, snap-buckle strapping, duct tape (that bandage tape I sent is perfect), and keep some used inner-tube as both giant rubber bands (lighter than bungees) and to protect your frame and prevent slipping when securing things with hose-clamps.
Pack a small quantity of spare securing materials. Situations will change on a trip.
If you really plan on living on the road, consider everything you do at home, and how to do that on the road. You use scissors at home. 20x more purposes can be accomplished at a fraction of the weight with a couple of utility razor blades. It's all about doing more with less, like C. making doughnuts with a sheet of plastic and a tin cup.
Don't hope to leave the day after tomorrow. It sounds like you need another week of packing preparation, even if you aren't waiting for new equipment to arrive.
Oh! Except for one alternative. you could also visit the same place as a round trip picnic with no gear at all (besides the minimum tubes and tools you should bike anywhere with), and lights, music, camera, and a coat. Try that, and pack for a real trip afterwards.
Two changes of clothes and deodorant was too much for an overnight camping trip. It depends if your purpose is practicing fully-loaded travel or not. (presuming your clothes are cotton. Biking in polyester is not a good idea.)
$500 for the trip. I take it we're no longer talking a weekend test camping trip. You need to do at least a fully-loaded overnight camping trip in prep for that, but I'd recommend at least a 60 mile unloaded day trip before that.
Two problems with the basket, it probably weighs too much and the center of gravity is probably too high, although come to think of it, you could strap things like the tent or tools to it's underside, in which case it might not be a bad idea (make damn sure they're attached securely though.)
I wish you could have followed those links. Most of the things were under $10 and would make life way easier.
Decent tent's aren't cheap though, and keep in mind you'll also want room inside for repacking all your gear, drawing, and playing cards if you're rained in for days straight.
If you're going to try living on the road, I'll send you the trailer. I can make myself a better alternative, and you can't. ..But not until you do a fully-loaded test camping trip first. Sending you that keyboard comes to mind. In fact, come to think of it, if no one ever plans to use that keyboard, we can do a shipping exchange. Emma has that roll-up keyboard I sent her anyhow. Actually hold off on that, but if so, don't toss the thing. I'd still want it back eventually.
If you can do without a trailer, you're better off without one, unless you need to switch quickly between camping-travel and errand/leisure modes. They add more weight, and the smaller wheels add more rolling resistance. Mostly you need one if you wish to live like a gypsy (like my trip was).
If you do do the basket, make sure its rustproof. I had a white painted wire clothes basket and preferred a plastic laundry basket.
My next solution is to attach fabric suitcases to the sides of the rear rack with additional struts, and have a laundry basket above, but mount all the heavy stuff to the far front for counter-balance.
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Post by Nixie on Jun 25, 2009 18:18:33 GMT -5
........ Right now, even unloaded, there's no way we could go 60 miles in one day. I might be able to if I started at 7 in the morning and didn't stop to eat, drink, go to the bathroom, or catch my breath.
Right now, we can't even go on a one-night test trip because the tent is the biggest packing problem. If we could leave the tent and all our tools behind, we'd be able to go, BUT those are the most important things. Mark's already had to fix a flat tire.
I don't think you get how big the tent is. It's longer than my handlebars and as wide as my sleeping bag. I could easily fit all my clothes and maybe even a pair of shoes into the tent bag if the tent weren't in it. Our tent was meant to be thrown into the trunk of a car. For a little bit over $100, I could get a tent that's under 5 pounds and thus free up enough space to actually carry the things I need. If I'm really desperate for space, I could buy a $35 backpacking tent for two, weighing only 3.5 pounds. Actually, according to mom, the tent we have now was only $35... but it weighs 11 pounds and it's huge and floppy. -__-;
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Post by Kristal Rose on Jun 25, 2009 19:35:43 GMT -5
People walk 3.5 mph. The average bicyclist does 10-20mph, crazier ones around town do 30mph for short trips. I did a leisurely 120 miles in 12 hours (sore at the end though), though I did stop only for a brief lunch at a beach. Use that odometer, and find out how many miles you can make in an hour.
10 hour unloaded trip at 6 mph, 6 hr @ 10mph, 5 hr trip @ 12mph. You can't do that? At least try your 48 mile trip.
That is too big a tent. I thought my two person backpacking tent was too big to bring along until it actually rained.
I can send you the yellow tent too. It's a hand me down from W., like the panniers, and has a bad case of dandruff from the silicone waterproofing peeling off inside. You'd need to flip it inside out, hose it off, throw it in the washer, and get a jar or spray can of waterproofing - possibly not worth the trouble of saving $35. I would have used it again if not for having a job now and not being so desperate. It's yours if you want it.
Catch your breath? If I sprint half a block I need to catch my breath, but I can bike non-stop indefinitely without needing to catch my breath. I've also biked with a sandwich in one hand, and a soda and cigarette in the other. Being on a bike isn't much different for me than sitting at my computer chair, except for having to mind all the upcoming glass, pebbles, cracks, and bumps. I can also ride with no hands, and stop within a few feet by sliding the bike 90ยบ.
I don't expect you to do those things, but I think you grossly underestimate the number of miles you could make in a day unloaded, unless your bike weighs a ton and has knobby center ridges.
Did you ever calculate your exact sequence of gear ratios? That's pretty important for loaded distance travel. Using slightly wrong gears could add 7% to your daily exertion. The first long hill you take on a full load, you'll find out what I mean. Going up such a hill with weight you can't experiment to find the best gear. You need to know which comes next in order. I kept a large chart under the clear panel of my tackle box in front of the steering wheel - still have that around. I don't need it for 12mi town trips with minor luggage though.
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Post by Nixie on Jun 25, 2009 23:11:20 GMT -5
Eh, I'd rather not use a tent that's flaking like dandruff (or asbestos).
Another setback. First Mark's tube had a leak, so he patched it and pumped it up... then it went flat again, so he took it to a friend's place to work on it and found that it was leaking no longer, but he replaced it with a new tube anyway. A while later, he took everything off his bike except his panniers and began riding home, but he didn't even get down the block before his pedal snapped in half and he kicked his panniers and the corners got caught in his spokes, thus shredding one of his panniers. Thankfully, we have a backup pair of pedals and a sewing kit, but still......... It's just one thing after another and we can't even get out of town like this...
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Post by Kristal Rose on Jun 26, 2009 8:23:48 GMT -5
Sounds like you guys are doing this with too much stress. Surrender to flow with what occurs and relax.
Not qute the tube strategy recommended, which is to alternate between patched tube and introduce new tubes into that swap only when a tube is too far gone for further patching (typically years and a few patches later). Otherwise you get stuck holding on to emergency tubes you can't trust. If he thinks the tube is too far gone (which usualy means rotten rubber or tire damage), then you have your first rubber and bungee supply tube.
Another good tube strategy is to put the recent defunct tube at the top of the closet for next repair and use, and have some other repaired tube ready for immediate emergency use. This is a happier plan when a repair doesn't work, and means you don't have to repair instantly. It also allows you to repair tubes in efficient bulk factory style. Label current condition of tubes on the box.
Always though leave your best tube for last, and buy another soon when you are out of unrepaired tubes. Some hints on tube work: Cut patch corners rounded if they don't already come that way. Inflate the tube to 3" dia. to find leaks, using a water tub if necessary. Wash and dry the the tube. Patch the tube as inflated as possible. Do the thin and dried coatings of cement as recommended, but add rings of freshly dried cement and a dot of cement in the puncture too, so that you're guaranteed to have the right stickiness somewhere. Crimp the air out of the patch from the center out. Flip the tube over so the same spots aren't rubbing on the tire. Reinstall the tube as inflated as possible. When installing a tube, wait 15 minutes, mostly inflate, let the air out, then fully inflate so that it's not clinging stressfully.
My favorite pedals are rubber ones useful for barefoot pedalling, like when returning from the beach.
The dandruff tent isn't toxic, just annoying.
Back to mileage, if you're heavily loaded and doing hills, you might only make 5 mph, at four hours, just 20 miles/day.
If you need anything, even getting it yourself, still compare eBay. The prices can be 1/3 even after shipping. It means you may have to wait a week or two though.
Send me a side photo of your bike, and the measurement between tubes, and I'll make you a frame bag from a thrift-store purse.
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Post by Kristal Rose on Jun 26, 2009 11:54:44 GMT -5
I can just give you auction numbers to search on. Here's a nice set of used panniers ending today: 220438486213 I suspect they would bite heels even worse though. I'd suggest them for the front, but even better for the front than floppy light stuff is a small quantity of tight heavy stuff.
The only reason for front panniers is if you have too much light floppy stuff.
I wish you could borrow a trailer to find if you want mine. It's in nearly new condition. It's useful for buying four months of cat supplies at once (cans, kibbles, litter), but my laundry basket and hanging stuff on my handlebars worked even better.
For my motorized tandem, a trailer might work better (making it more of a freight train). I don't know yet though.
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Post by Nixie on Jun 26, 2009 12:47:02 GMT -5
Today I'm gonna get a reasonably high quality tent, and MAYBE a basket to mount on my rack. I saw a nice one at REI. If I'm super lucky, the tent will fit in the bottom of the basket and I can use the rest of the basket for light fluffy things (my clothes).
It's hard to "surrender to the flow and relax" when we can't even ride across town without something breaking. It's almost July. If it takes us too much longer to get going, we'll have to wait until next summer or freeze.
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Post by Kristal Rose on Jun 26, 2009 14:09:04 GMT -5
Tent's a good idea. Basket is good if not far heavier than your panniers, and useful for town commuting too.
You may be able to secure your tent poles to the frame tube unless they're not only women's tubes, but also of the curved variety.
In a basket you can store a tent vertically (towards the front). Still, strapping it to your rack center sounds best, unless flat things like drawing pads will be going on top.
I didn't set off till October, just before the storms began to hit, but at least I was still in California. Things get stormier and foggier North of SF, and progressively colder up the whole coast.
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Post by Kristal Rose on Jun 26, 2009 17:22:00 GMT -5
Yay, I just came with a very simple solution, at least for me.
[Text deleted for IP reasons]
They've already made some of my ideas like the shock-absorber seat post and seat-post bike pump.
All Patents Pending - Kristal McKinstry 2009.
Do you want me to photograph how to build one?
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Post by Nixie on Jun 27, 2009 1:17:07 GMT -5
Not neccessary. I've decided to use the $35 basket I bought at REI. It's this model: www.rei.com/product/780119 but I'm going to modify it so it's more stable by drilling some holes in my rack and bolting it on, using wing nuts so I can still remove the basket and panniers. I do have the perfect rack to mount the thing on, BUT, the plastic thingy used to mount it on the rack wobbles a little bit too much. I did buy a tent today as well. It's 5 pounds, much better quality, still big enough for 2 people. The bag it comes in is waterproof and has built-on straps, which I will use to secure the tent onto the back of the basket. I'll also use a single small bungee cord so the tent doesn't flop. There, that solves my biggest storage problems. Once I get some bolts, wing nuts, and have succesfully drilled the holes to mount the basket with, I shall have enough room to carry clothing and maybe even a sketchpad. I'm really hoping I have enough room for a deck of playing cards. I might still have to get rid of my front basket and strap the sleeping bag onto my handlebars.
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Post by Kristal Rose on Jun 27, 2009 13:40:21 GMT -5
Try to keep bike advice in this thread for the benefit of people who come upon it via Google.
Dang, you really did mean top mounted. If you can't still use your panniers with it, get your money back.
Additionally bolting it sounds sensible. Be sure to use lock washers, or rubber washers made from inner-tube, and still expect checking your bolts to be part of any daily ride. - Otherwise use lock-nuts (with wrenches or socket) and expect removal of panniers to be more of a daily hassle.
You'll have to go to a hardware store to stock up on 5mm and 6mm nut/bolt hardware. Better that than american hardware which can't be used elsewhere on your bike in emergencies. Carry a hacksaw blade, and you can get by with just long spare borts.
You've learned well, wobbly is not acceptable.
"and has built-on straps, which I will use to secure the tent onto the back of the basket." - or underneath. To your front frame tubes is even better if possible, though may involve wrapping a tube in inner-tube rubber with taped ends first.
You have a front basket? If you can see over it, just put the sleeping bag on top of it, or in front. The rear of your rear basket is not a bad place for a sleeping bag either, with the tent and tools more up front somewhere.
Sounds like things are coming along much better now.
The front racks for shock forks are only $8 on eBay, but they don't carry anyhing on their own, and are just a base for attaching for other storage things.
Dont overstuff your rear basket, and you can put your sketch pad laid flat beween basket and a sleeping bag (and hat) like I did. A vertical sketch pad rack to the side of your basket or front rack could work, but is more effort to build, and sounds like would have a higher failure rate.
Every detail of your bike, including the frame will have a failure rate. The question is if the rate is acceptable for your budget or weight. Even the bolts securing racks to forks will require replacement every year or two. You can reduce that with tungsten/stainless-alloy hardware if you can find it.
A three month failure rate on a camping trip, or in any location where failure would result in the whole set-up self-destructing on the highway is unacceptable. (hence those extra bolts for the rack being smart thinking.)
Get both dinky and wide washers for your 5mm & 6mm hardware too. The rack requires wide washer to spread the load, but those won't fit elsewhere. A single bolt can store all your spare washers and nuts of the same size.
It sounds like you have the required type of thinking down now, which is more important than all the advice details.
Some more advice though. Anything that might require access during travel needs to be convenient to reach. If you pack your panniers well and tight, getting into them on the bike won't be easy, so just keep camping stuff in there. If your straps between basket and sleeping bag aren't convenient, you'll be discouraged from breaking out your sketch pad, or even taking a coat on or off.
Oh, another new idea. You can extend rods like those on your rack from either the rack or your basket, allowing you to place your panniers further back, and not bite your heels. It's oviously not as secure though.
Oh hey, a trick I use myself which I forgot to mention. I take segments of rubber tube sliced open along the side, and zip-tie them to my rack rods such that panniers and bike bags may not slide forward or backward, but still lift right off. That alone may cure your your heel biting problem.
Wrapping your tent in your sleeping bag is an option, but it's better to have each in their respective weight-density zones.
One more thing, your panniers are as if hinged from the top. The elastic below is nearly useless to prevent swing. Hopefully having a basket above prevents such potential swing, otherwise deal with it. Every bit of floppiness detracts from your safety and adds to wobbbliness exertion.
I'm glad you accepted the challenge instead of despairing. I came back from my bike sabbatical feeling I could deal with anything (involving nature and physics) (business and people remain another matter).
Oh, one more (2 more) hardware detail. If the basket and rack aren't directly touching, you'll need a bushing (spacer) between them. Either a stack of fender washers (the wide ones) with an inner-tube washer, or a thick rubber faucet washer (probably around th house already) would work. Snag some of those anyhow. They are handy for bike engineering. One advantage to any rubber washer in the stack is that they hold bolts in place. No point in having to hold a stack of hardware from falling each time you remove your basket. You'll probably want the wing-nut on the top side, and will have to either squeeze a wrench between tire and rack twice a day, or use a lock-nut as you spacer. If the basket slides on though, that's not an option. You'll have to live with the tedious wrench underneath solution, and probably won't ever remove basket or panniers on tours. That's better than insecure gear though.
~
Not that it matters now, but if you didn't get what my suggested rig looks like, picture a light aluminum furniture dolly as a trailer from the seat post, but no wheels, and the bottom suspended by struts to the rear axle area. One then just straps their luggage on that.
That's not a bad basket you found. Rather small, but at least well designed.
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Post by Kristal Rose on Jun 27, 2009 17:31:18 GMT -5
Just had another thought, one you might use yourself, not in conflict with your existing gear yet, and that is to make shelf ledges suspended from a front rack for supporting narrow art/tackle cases on their sides, leaving the top for fluffy things like coats or a sleeping bag.
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